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Feeding Your Pet Bird
To ensure that a bird stays healthy, feed it a proper diet. A balanced diet contains ingredients from all the major food
groups. Adjust quantities of different foods so that your bird samples everything and doesn’t fill up on just one preferred
food. A seed-only diet is deficient in many nutrients and leads to malnutrition, poor feathers, increased susceptibility to
illness, and a shortened life. Processed pellet foods, fruits, vegetables, cereals, breads, and proteins like beans, eggs,
or meats should be offered to provide a well-balanced diet. Birds are one type of pet where we encourage the feeding of
people food.
Clean, fresh water always must be available. Nutritional and vitamin supplements can be used under the guidance of
your veterinarian. Birds, like people, frequently have strong preferences for certain foods. Even if they are stubborn, we
should not give up on getting them to eat what is best for them. If you notice a sudden decrease in appetite, contact your
veterinarian— it could signal an illness requiring medical care.
To ensure that a bird stays healthy, feed it a proper diet. A balanced diet contains ingredients from all the major food
groups. Adjust quantities of different foods so that your bird samples everything and doesn’t fill up on just one preferred
food. A seed-only diet is deficient in many nutrients and leads to malnutrition, poor feathers, increased susceptibility to
illness, and a shortened life. Processed pellet foods, fruits, vegetables, cereals, breads, and proteins like beans, eggs,
or meats should be offered to provide a well-balanced diet. Birds are one type of pet where we encourage the feeding of
people food.
Clean, fresh water always must be available. Nutritional and vitamin supplements can be used under the guidance of
your veterinarian. Birds, like people, frequently have strong preferences for certain foods. Even if they are stubborn, we
should not give up on getting them to eat what is best for them. If you notice a sudden decrease in appetite, contact your
veterinarian— it could signal an illness requiring medical care.
Caring for Your Gerbil
Supplies Needed
Chores:
Daily
IMPORTANT NOTE: Gerbils have high metabolisms and can become hypoglycemic if they do not eat every day. If your gerbil appears lethargic or isn’t eating
well, go to your veterinarian immediately.
Weekly
Yearly
The Right Temperature
Gerbils thrive at room temperature, normally whatever is comfortable to humans. Gerbils are prone to overheating, so in a home without air conditioning, at
least have fans blowing to circulate the air. If it’s extremely hot, surround the aquarium/cage with ice packs (or purchase a temperature-controlled one).
How to Hold Your Gerbil
It is very important that you never hold your gerbil by its tail, as it will break off. Gerbils can bite, so be careful to not surprise them – approach slowly and let
them hear you coming. Cup them in the palm of your hand. The more you hold them, the more comfortable they will be with being held.
More Than One Gerbil?
Gerbils are social in the wild. Since it can be dangerous to spay or neuter them because of their small size, select same sex gerbils and purchase them at the
same time – introducing a new gerbil to one who has already become accustomed to their home will create problems. Females tend to be less aggressive than
males. Note: the more animals that share an aquarium/cage, the more frequently it will need to be cleaned.
Don’t Let a Loose Gerbil Out of Your Sight
Gerbils are fast and small – you don’t want to lose them in your house! Be sure if you remove them from their aquarium/cage that it is in a secure room or an
exercise ball and never leave him/her alone.
Supplies Needed
- Aquariums are better than cages because cages might have bars that their feet can get caught in and break. A well-ventilated aquarium with a top that
seals so your gerbil can’t push up on it and escape is best. - Line the aquarium/cage with shredded paper (newspaper or paper towels) or recycled paper bedding (no shavings of any kind), with a mound in a corner
– gerbils love to burrow! - Gerbil/rodent pellets
- A wheel that is smooth-sided to prevent its feet or tail from getting caught and broken
- A water bottle that attaches to the side of the aquarium
- A tip-proof (weighted) bowl for food
- A safe wooden chew toy made specifically for gerbils
- Exercise ball
- Dangerous Foods
- Salt
- High-sodium food
- High-sugar food
- High-carbohydrate food
- Nicotine
- Soil
- House plants
- Leaves or grass from your yard
- Food off your plate
- Do not add vitamins to their water
- Avoid too much dried fruit (it can lead to intestinal issues)
- Too much fruit or vegetables can lead to diarrhea in gerbils (water in, water out…)
- Yogurt drops and other advertised “treats” actually aren’t appropriate
Chores:
Daily
- Feed your gerbil a pellet diet as directed by the label. Note: a seed and nut diet is not a complete diet; only a pellet diet is complete.
- Supplement the diet with fresh vegetables such as leafy greens, lettuce, spinach or carrots (avoid high sugar fruit)
- Clean up leftovers before they spoil
- Be sure their water bottle is filled with fresh water
- Scoop up soiled bedding each day
IMPORTANT NOTE: Gerbils have high metabolisms and can become hypoglycemic if they do not eat every day. If your gerbil appears lethargic or isn’t eating
well, go to your veterinarian immediately.
Weekly
- Completely clean the aquarium/cage once a week with hot, soapy water.
Yearly
- Take your gerbil to your veterinarian at least once a year, though twice a year is preferable because their life spans aren’t very long. Your veterinarian
can also cut their nails at that time for you if you aren’t comfortable doing it.
The Right Temperature
Gerbils thrive at room temperature, normally whatever is comfortable to humans. Gerbils are prone to overheating, so in a home without air conditioning, at
least have fans blowing to circulate the air. If it’s extremely hot, surround the aquarium/cage with ice packs (or purchase a temperature-controlled one).
How to Hold Your Gerbil
It is very important that you never hold your gerbil by its tail, as it will break off. Gerbils can bite, so be careful to not surprise them – approach slowly and let
them hear you coming. Cup them in the palm of your hand. The more you hold them, the more comfortable they will be with being held.
More Than One Gerbil?
Gerbils are social in the wild. Since it can be dangerous to spay or neuter them because of their small size, select same sex gerbils and purchase them at the
same time – introducing a new gerbil to one who has already become accustomed to their home will create problems. Females tend to be less aggressive than
males. Note: the more animals that share an aquarium/cage, the more frequently it will need to be cleaned.
Don’t Let a Loose Gerbil Out of Your Sight
Gerbils are fast and small – you don’t want to lose them in your house! Be sure if you remove them from their aquarium/cage that it is in a secure room or an
exercise ball and never leave him/her alone.
Caring for Your Hamster
Supplies Needed
Aquariums are better than cages because cages might have bars that their feet can get caught in and break. A well-ventilated aquarium with a top that seals so
your hamster can’t push up on it and escape is best.
Dangerous Foods
Chores:
Daily
IMPORTANT NOTE: Hamsters have high metabolisms and can become hypoglycemic if they do not eat every day. If your hamster appears tired or isn’t eating
well, go to your veterinarian immediately.
Weekly
Yearly
Tip: Let your child know that hamsters may only live for a few years so that they aren’t overly shocked when their pet dies.
Cheek Pouches
Often new hamster owners become alarmed by their bulging cheeks, suspecting their pet might have a growth or a tumor. However, hamsters can store a large
quantity of food in their check pouches. Even if you haven’t seen them eating recently, don’t worry!
The Right Temperature
Hamsters thrive at room temperature, normally whatever is comfortable to humans. In a home without air conditioning, at least have fans blowing to circulate the
air. If it’s extremely hot, surround the aquarium with ice packs (or purchase a temperature-controlled one).
How to Hold Your Hamster
Hamsters can bite, so be careful to not surprise them – approach slowly and let them hear you coming. Cup them in the palm of your hand. The more you hold
them, the more comfortable they will be with being held.
*Hamsters aren’t appropriate for small children because they can carry diseases like ringworm and because they will bite if handled roughly. Be sure to wash your
hands after handling.
More Than One Hamster?
Hamsters are fairly solitary and may become territorial if they have to share their exercise wheel. Since it can be dangerous to spay or neuter them because of
their small size, select same sex hamsters and purchase them at the same time – introducing a new hamster to one who has already become accustomed to their
home will create problems. Females tend to be less aggressive than males, and dwarf hamsters. Note: the more animals that share an aquarium, the more
frequently it will need to be cleaned.
Don’t Let a Loose Hamster Out of Your Sight
Hamsters are fast and small – you don’t want to lose them in your house! Be sure if you remove them from their aquarium, that it is in a secure room or an
exercise ball, and never leave him/her alone
Supplies Needed
Aquariums are better than cages because cages might have bars that their feet can get caught in and break. A well-ventilated aquarium with a top that seals so
your hamster can’t push up on it and escape is best.
- Line the aquarium/cage with shredded paper (newspaper or paper towels) or recycled paper bedding (no shavings of any kind), with a mound in a corner –
hamsters love to burrow! - Hamster pellets
- A wheel that is smooth-sided to prevent its feet from getting caught and broken
- A water bottle that attaches to the aquarium
- A tip-proof (weighted) bowl for food
- A safe wooden chew toy made specifically for hamsters
- Exercise ball
Dangerous Foods
- Salt
- High-sodium food
- High-sugar food
- High-carbohydrate food
- Nicotine
- Soil
- House plants
- Leaves or grass from your yard
- Food off your plate
- Do not add vitamins to their water
- Avoid too much dried fruit (it can lead to intestinal issues)
- Yogurt drops and other advertised hamster “treats” actually aren’t safe
Chores:
Daily
- Feed your hamster a pellet diet as directed by the label. Note: a seed and nut diet is not a complete diet; only a pellet diet is complete.
- Because hamsters are nocturnal, it might be best to feed them in the evening so that they eat when their food is fresh
- Supplement the diet with fresh vegetables such as leafy greens, lettuce, spinach or carrots (avoid high sugar fruit)
- Clean up leftovers before they spoil
- Be sure their water bottle is filled with fresh water
- Scoop up soiled bedding each day
IMPORTANT NOTE: Hamsters have high metabolisms and can become hypoglycemic if they do not eat every day. If your hamster appears tired or isn’t eating
well, go to your veterinarian immediately.
Weekly
- Completely clean the aquarium once a week with hot, soapy water.
Yearly
- Take your hamster to your veterinarian at least once a year, though twice a year is preferable because their life spans aren’t very long. Your veterinarian
can also cut their nails at that time for you if you aren’t comfortable doing it.
Tip: Let your child know that hamsters may only live for a few years so that they aren’t overly shocked when their pet dies.
Cheek Pouches
Often new hamster owners become alarmed by their bulging cheeks, suspecting their pet might have a growth or a tumor. However, hamsters can store a large
quantity of food in their check pouches. Even if you haven’t seen them eating recently, don’t worry!
The Right Temperature
Hamsters thrive at room temperature, normally whatever is comfortable to humans. In a home without air conditioning, at least have fans blowing to circulate the
air. If it’s extremely hot, surround the aquarium with ice packs (or purchase a temperature-controlled one).
How to Hold Your Hamster
Hamsters can bite, so be careful to not surprise them – approach slowly and let them hear you coming. Cup them in the palm of your hand. The more you hold
them, the more comfortable they will be with being held.
*Hamsters aren’t appropriate for small children because they can carry diseases like ringworm and because they will bite if handled roughly. Be sure to wash your
hands after handling.
More Than One Hamster?
Hamsters are fairly solitary and may become territorial if they have to share their exercise wheel. Since it can be dangerous to spay or neuter them because of
their small size, select same sex hamsters and purchase them at the same time – introducing a new hamster to one who has already become accustomed to their
home will create problems. Females tend to be less aggressive than males, and dwarf hamsters. Note: the more animals that share an aquarium, the more
frequently it will need to be cleaned.
Don’t Let a Loose Hamster Out of Your Sight
Hamsters are fast and small – you don’t want to lose them in your house! Be sure if you remove them from their aquarium, that it is in a secure room or an
exercise ball, and never leave him/her alone
Caring for Your Rat
The domestic rat is a descendant of the wild brown rat (Rattus norvegicus) and has been bred as a pet for about a hundred years. Pet rats are much less fearful
than their wild cousins, and when handled gently, they quickly learn to enjoy riding on their human friends’ shoulders and napping in their laps.
The average rat ranges from 14 to 18 inches long, including the seven-inch tail. These companion rodents come in a variety of coat types and colors, from curly
and shiny to black, white and black-and-white. If well cared for, rats typically live 2 1/2 to three years.
Curious, intelligent and always up for some fun, rats can be great pets for kids—but young caretakers should always be supervised by an adult. These animals
are not toys, and must be treated with kindness and respect.
Cost
When you first get your pet, you’ll need to spend about $35 for a cage. Food runs about $50 a year, plus $20 annually for toys and treats, and $220 annually
for litter and bedding material. We recommend purchasing your rats from a breeder or, even better, adopting them from a local shelter or small-animal rescue
group.
Housing
Rats are very social with members of their own kind, and should be kept in pairs at minimum. Baby rats can be removed from their litters at about six weeks of
age. A pair of females is recommended for first-time rat caretakers. Males can do well together if introduced when they are young. Females, on the other hand,
are more accepting of new friends introduced later in life.
Note that a neutered male can live with females, or a spayed female can live with males. Do not keep intact males and females together, as they will breed—and
breed. The average rat litter is 12 young, and can be as high as 20.
Rats do best in wire cages because they enjoy climbing, and the wire offers good ventilation. A cage that is 2’ x 2’ x 2’ will generally do for a pair of rats, but a
larger space would be much appreciated. If you plan to keep more than that, you’ll need a larger cage. The floor should be solid, and a bedding of aspen or
pelleted recycled paper must be provided. Do not use pine or cedar shavings, which can be harmful to your pets. If you find that your rats like to make nests,
provide shredded paper towels or napkins for this purpose.
A large, multi-level cage designed for ferrets can also make a great rat home, as can a large aquarium. If you opt for the latter, you’ll need a screen cover to
provide ventilation, and will probably need to clean the cage more often to keep odor problems under control.
Whatever type of cage you choose, don’t forget the furniture! Provide small boxes or flower pots to hide in (it’s very necessary for your rats to have a quiet place
to which they can retreat) and PVC tubes for your rats to run through. You can also add a tree branch for them to climb on. Some rats enjoy running on an
exercise wheel, so you may want to get yours one. Make sure that the wheel has a solid surface without wire rungs, so their tails cannot get caught while running.
Keep in mind that a bored rat is an unhappy rat, and it’s up to you to provide the fun and games for your little guys. They LOVE toys, and you can offer yours
many of the same toys that are enjoyed by parrots, including swings and ropes for climbing.
Rats can be prone to colds, so be sure to keep the cage out of drafts. Intense direct sunlight should also be avoided, as rats are highly susceptible to
heatstroke. A room kept at 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit should be just right. Make sure the cage is easily accessible for clean-up by placing it away from the
wall. (And P.S., it’s especially great if you can find a location where the family gathers in the early evening—your gregarious pets will love it!)
Diet
Your pets’ main diet should consist of rat blocks, a high-quality pellet chow formulated for rodents. Look for a brand that lists soy meal as the main ingredient.
This food should be available at all times.
The ASPCA recommends offering small amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables to your rats every day. Peas, broccoli, carrots, apples and bananas are good
foods to start with, but it’s fun to try new things and find out your pets’ favorites. Rats love people food, and you can give yours the occasional table scrap, such
as cooked pasta, small pieces of egg or chicken, or a bit of pizza crust. Treats need to be limited to prevent obesity.
Do not give your rats chocolate, corn, candy, caffeinated and carbonated beverages, onions, sticky foods such as taffy and peanut butter, and junk food.
Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A water bottle with a drinking tube that attaches to the side of the cage is the best way to go.
General Care
Remove droppings, uneaten food and soiled areas of bedding from your pets’ cage every day. Clean the cage completely once a week by replacing dirty
bedding and scrubbing down the rest of the cage with warm, soapy water.
Like that of all rodents, a rat’s front teeth grow continuously. Provide unpainted, untreated pieces of wood, dog biscuits or safe cardboard or rawhide chew toys
for your rats to gnaw on. This is crucial for keeping their teeth in tip-top condition and preventing dental problems.
Rats are friendly and curious by nature, but you’ll need to get your pets used to you—and used to being handled. Start by feeding them small treats. When they’
re comfortable with that, you can pick them up, one hand supporting the bottom, the other over the back. When you get to know each other better, don’t be
surprised if your little friends want to snuggle and be petted.
Once your rats are hand-tamed, you should let them play outside of the cage in a safe, secure area for an hour or so every day. This out-of-cage playtime is
mandatory—and will keep your smart, active friends mentally stimulated and physically fit. Just be sure to supervise at all times, please.
Veterinary Care
If you think one of your rats is sick, don’t wait until your regularly scheduled annual check-up—seek medical attention immediately. Common signs that
something isn’t right with your rat include sneezing, lethargy, weight loss, dull eyes, diarrhea and difficulty breathing. Rats are particularly susceptible to external
parasites such as mites. If you think your animal is infested, a trip to the vet is in order to clear up the infestation.
Rat Supply Checklist
The domestic rat is a descendant of the wild brown rat (Rattus norvegicus) and has been bred as a pet for about a hundred years. Pet rats are much less fearful
than their wild cousins, and when handled gently, they quickly learn to enjoy riding on their human friends’ shoulders and napping in their laps.
The average rat ranges from 14 to 18 inches long, including the seven-inch tail. These companion rodents come in a variety of coat types and colors, from curly
and shiny to black, white and black-and-white. If well cared for, rats typically live 2 1/2 to three years.
Curious, intelligent and always up for some fun, rats can be great pets for kids—but young caretakers should always be supervised by an adult. These animals
are not toys, and must be treated with kindness and respect.
Cost
When you first get your pet, you’ll need to spend about $35 for a cage. Food runs about $50 a year, plus $20 annually for toys and treats, and $220 annually
for litter and bedding material. We recommend purchasing your rats from a breeder or, even better, adopting them from a local shelter or small-animal rescue
group.
Housing
Rats are very social with members of their own kind, and should be kept in pairs at minimum. Baby rats can be removed from their litters at about six weeks of
age. A pair of females is recommended for first-time rat caretakers. Males can do well together if introduced when they are young. Females, on the other hand,
are more accepting of new friends introduced later in life.
Note that a neutered male can live with females, or a spayed female can live with males. Do not keep intact males and females together, as they will breed—and
breed. The average rat litter is 12 young, and can be as high as 20.
Rats do best in wire cages because they enjoy climbing, and the wire offers good ventilation. A cage that is 2’ x 2’ x 2’ will generally do for a pair of rats, but a
larger space would be much appreciated. If you plan to keep more than that, you’ll need a larger cage. The floor should be solid, and a bedding of aspen or
pelleted recycled paper must be provided. Do not use pine or cedar shavings, which can be harmful to your pets. If you find that your rats like to make nests,
provide shredded paper towels or napkins for this purpose.
A large, multi-level cage designed for ferrets can also make a great rat home, as can a large aquarium. If you opt for the latter, you’ll need a screen cover to
provide ventilation, and will probably need to clean the cage more often to keep odor problems under control.
Whatever type of cage you choose, don’t forget the furniture! Provide small boxes or flower pots to hide in (it’s very necessary for your rats to have a quiet place
to which they can retreat) and PVC tubes for your rats to run through. You can also add a tree branch for them to climb on. Some rats enjoy running on an
exercise wheel, so you may want to get yours one. Make sure that the wheel has a solid surface without wire rungs, so their tails cannot get caught while running.
Keep in mind that a bored rat is an unhappy rat, and it’s up to you to provide the fun and games for your little guys. They LOVE toys, and you can offer yours
many of the same toys that are enjoyed by parrots, including swings and ropes for climbing.
Rats can be prone to colds, so be sure to keep the cage out of drafts. Intense direct sunlight should also be avoided, as rats are highly susceptible to
heatstroke. A room kept at 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit should be just right. Make sure the cage is easily accessible for clean-up by placing it away from the
wall. (And P.S., it’s especially great if you can find a location where the family gathers in the early evening—your gregarious pets will love it!)
Diet
Your pets’ main diet should consist of rat blocks, a high-quality pellet chow formulated for rodents. Look for a brand that lists soy meal as the main ingredient.
This food should be available at all times.
The ASPCA recommends offering small amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables to your rats every day. Peas, broccoli, carrots, apples and bananas are good
foods to start with, but it’s fun to try new things and find out your pets’ favorites. Rats love people food, and you can give yours the occasional table scrap, such
as cooked pasta, small pieces of egg or chicken, or a bit of pizza crust. Treats need to be limited to prevent obesity.
Do not give your rats chocolate, corn, candy, caffeinated and carbonated beverages, onions, sticky foods such as taffy and peanut butter, and junk food.
Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A water bottle with a drinking tube that attaches to the side of the cage is the best way to go.
General Care
Remove droppings, uneaten food and soiled areas of bedding from your pets’ cage every day. Clean the cage completely once a week by replacing dirty
bedding and scrubbing down the rest of the cage with warm, soapy water.
Like that of all rodents, a rat’s front teeth grow continuously. Provide unpainted, untreated pieces of wood, dog biscuits or safe cardboard or rawhide chew toys
for your rats to gnaw on. This is crucial for keeping their teeth in tip-top condition and preventing dental problems.
Rats are friendly and curious by nature, but you’ll need to get your pets used to you—and used to being handled. Start by feeding them small treats. When they’
re comfortable with that, you can pick them up, one hand supporting the bottom, the other over the back. When you get to know each other better, don’t be
surprised if your little friends want to snuggle and be petted.
Once your rats are hand-tamed, you should let them play outside of the cage in a safe, secure area for an hour or so every day. This out-of-cage playtime is
mandatory—and will keep your smart, active friends mentally stimulated and physically fit. Just be sure to supervise at all times, please.
Veterinary Care
If you think one of your rats is sick, don’t wait until your regularly scheduled annual check-up—seek medical attention immediately. Common signs that
something isn’t right with your rat include sneezing, lethargy, weight loss, dull eyes, diarrhea and difficulty breathing. Rats are particularly susceptible to external
parasites such as mites. If you think your animal is infested, a trip to the vet is in order to clear up the infestation.
Rat Supply Checklist
- Wire cage, large aquarium with screen cover or multi-level ferret cage - Aspen or pelleted recycled paper bedding
- Small boxes or flower pots
- Tree branch for climbing
- Exercise wheel (solid, no rungs)
- PVC tubes for tunneling
- Rodent chow, block or pellet form
- Attachable water bottle with drinking tub
- Unpainted, untreated piece of wood, dog biscuits or safe chew toy for dental health
- Safe and rodent-appropriate toys, including swings, ropes and other toys made for parrots.
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